ROLES OF INDIVIDUALS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE INSTALLATION OF VENTING OF FLUE GASES FROM GAS FUELED APPLIANCES
The Board of Examiners of Plumbers and Gasfitters (the "Board") voted today to adopt and issue the following interpretation of the provisions of Chapter 142 of the Massachusetts General Laws and the Board’s regulations as found at 248 CMR relative to the licensure necessary to engage in the venting of flue gases from gas fueled equipment. This interpretation is intended to serve as an educational resource for local plumbing inspectors and for licensed plumbers and gasfitters.
The Board has adopted this interpretation following consultation with and the advice of Board Counsel. In light of the recent enactment of legislation requiring carbon monoxide detectors in residential dwellings, and the carbon monoxide poisoning incidents which resulted in the enactment of that legislation, the Board has issued this interpretation.
To clarify and interpret the Board’s regulations regarding the roles of the individuals responsible for the installation of the venting of flue gases and associated with the installation, operation, repair or maintenance of gas fueled appliances.
The Board’s regulations at 248 CMR 3.05(1)(b)8, state that permits to perform gas fitting work shall only be issued to licensed plumbers or licensed gas fitters.
The complete installation, alteration, replacement or repair of gas fueled equipment requires that the licensed plumber or gas fitter provide for the proper venting of any gas fueled appliance in accordance with the regulations promulgated by the Board, the National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54-2002 and ANSI Z223.1-2002. The provisions of these regulations and codes are applicable to licensed plumbers or gas fitters. The licensed plumber or gas fitter is responsible for all aspects of the gas fitting work for which the permit is applied for and issued, including providing for the venting of the flue gases resulting from the operation of the gas appliance installed, altered, replaced or repaired in accordance with all applicable codes and regulations. The licensed plumber or gas fitter must be present for the final inspection of any installation, alteration, replacement or repair of any gas appliance, which includes the proper venting of such equipment. Final inspection will not result in an approval unless all regulations, code provisions and standards are complied with, including those related to the venting of flue gases.
Therefore, given that the regulations and code provisions for the installation, alteration, repair or replacement of gas fueled equipment, including the venting of the flue gases from that equipment, are enforced as against the licensed plumber or gas fitter to whom the permit for such work is issued, then only a licensed plumber or gas fitter or an appropriately trained person under the control and supervision of a licensed plumber or gas fitter can perform such work, specifically including the venting of gas fueled equipment in accordance with applicable regulations and code provisions.
Specifically, the venting of flue gases should be performed as follows:
1. Large Boilers of 400,000 BTU/hr or more:
248 CMR 7.00 of the Massachusetts State Plumbing and Gas Fitting Code addresses Gas Utilization Equipment in Large Boilers (400,000 BTU/hr or more). Because of the size of the venting systems associated with Large Boilers of 400,000 BTU’s or more, it is the Board’s interpretation of its regulations in 248 CMR 7.00 that the vent connectors, vent connector manifolds, breeching, metal or factory built chimneys and or venting system associated with large boilers of 400,000 BTU/hr or greater may be installed by individuals qualified to assemble and construct combustion venting piping or conduits when the following conditions are satisfied;
a. A licensed (Master or Journeyman) Plumber or Gasfitter shall be responsible for and supervise the installation performed by such qualified individuals, and;
b. The supervising licensed (Master or Journeyman) Plumber or Gasfitter has secured a gas fitting permit in compliance with 248 CMR 3.00.
2. Gas Equipment under 400,000 BTU/hr:
248 CMR 5.00 of the Massachusetts State Plumbing and Gas Fitting Code addresses Gas Equipment under 400,000 BTU/hr. It is the Board’s interpretation of its regulations at 248 CMR 5.00 entitled Amendments and Modifications to ANSI Z223.1-NFPA-54, 2002 edition, that the vent connectors, vent connector manifolds, breeching, venting systems or special venting systems of gas appliances and gas equipment that is less than 400,000 BTU/hr may be installed by individuals qualified to assemble and construct combustion venting piping or conduits when the following conditions are satisfied;
a. A licensed (Master or Journeyman) Plumber or Gasfitter shall be responsible for and supervise the installation performed by such qualified individuals, and;
b. The supervising licensed (Master or Journeyman) Plumber or Gasfitter has secured a gas fitting permit in compliance with 248 CMR 3.00.
It is the Board’s interpretation of its regulations that chimney lining systems, metal and factory built chimneys and for ventilation hoods used for exhausting combustion by-products and B-Vent, all as defined in NFPA-54, may be installed by individuals qualified to assemble and install such systems for gas appliances when the following conditions are satisfied:
a. A licensed Master or Journeyman Plumber or Gasfitter shall be responsible for and supervise the installation performed by such qualified individuals, and;
b. The licensed Master or Journeyman Plumber or Gasfitter has secured a gas fitting permit in compliance with 248 CMR 3.00.
G.L. c. 142, § 1 defines "Gas fitting" as "any work which includes the installation, alteration and replacement of a piping system beyond the gas meter outlet or regulator through which is conveyed or intended to be conveyed fuel gas of any kind for power, refrigeration, heating or illumination purposes including the connection therewith and testing of gas fixtures, ranges, refrigerators, stoves, water heaters, house heating boilers and any other gas using appliances, and the maintenance in good and safe condition of said systems, and the making of necessary repairs and changes.” Emphasis added.
G.L. c. 142, § 1 also defines "Master gas fitter" and Journeyman gas fitter." A master gas fitter is defined, in pertinent part, as "a gas fitter,…, who,…, performs gas fitting work, subject to inspection and in compliance of any law, rule or regulation pertaining to same." A journeyman gas fitter is defined as "a person who himself does any work in gas fitting, subject to inspection under any law, rule or regulation pertaining to same." Emphasis added.
In accordance with the above definitions, gas fitting work includes the "installation, alteration and replacement of the piping system” through which the fuel gas is supplied, but it is not limited to that aspect of gas fitting work alone. It also includes the maintenance in good and safe condition of gas piping systems. Gas appliance systems include the venting of flue gases, a potentially dangerous by-product of the system installed by the gas fitter or a qualified individual acting under the supervision of a licensed gas fitter. All gas fitting work, whether performed by a journeyman gas fitter or a master gas fitter, must be performed in compliance with "any law, rule, or regulation pertaining to same."
Under G.L. c. 142, § 13, the Board is authorized to promulgate rules and regulations relative to gas fitting in buildings throughout the commonwealth. The regulations are to be reasonable, uniform, based on generally accepted standards of engineering practice, and designed to prevent fire, explosion, injury and death. The proper venting of flue gases, including carbon monoxide, which are the by-product of gas fueled equipment installed by licensed plumbers or gas fitters, is addressed not only by the Board’s regulations, but also by the National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54-2002 and ANSI Z223.1-2002, the provisions of which have been adopted by the Board.
A licensed plumber or gas fitter is trained in the proper venting of flue gases in accordance with the aforementioned regulations, code provisions and standards, and is tested on his or her knowledge of those provisions before being issued a license.
A local inspector of gas fitting will inspect an installation, alteration, repair or replacement performed by a licensed plumber or gas fitter pursuant to a gas fitting permit issued by the local inspector to ensure that the licensed plumber or gas fitter has complied with those provisions. Only when the installation, alteration, repair or replacement has been determined to comply with all applicable regulations, code provisions or standards, including those applicable to the venting of flue gases, will the local inspector indicate his or her approval on the permit. Strict compliance with all regulations, code provisions and standards in the venting of flue gases by the licensed plumber or gas fitter is critical, as failure to comply with those provisions could result in serious injury from carbon monoxide poisoning to occupants of the building where the gas equipment is installed. It is for that reason that the venting of flue gases resulting from the operation of gas fueled equipment must be performed by licensed plumbers or gas fitters or, in the circumstances described above, by appropriately trained persons under their control and supervision.
A flue is simply a passage for conveying exhaust gases from an appliance to the outdoors. A flue may be a duct, pipe, vent, or chimney. An unlined chimney is technically a flue, even though an unlined chimney is a fire hazard.
Vents are similar to fireplaces and flues in that they may pass through other parts of the house and they do need temperature protection to prevent a transfer of heat from the vent to the surrounding building materials. However, vents are not designed to handle the high heat produced by wood burning fires.
Gas appliances are divided into four venting categories based on vent operating pressure and whether they are condensing or non-condensing. Category I is negative pressure, non-condensing. Category II is negative pressure, condensing. Category III is positive pressure, non-condensing.
Flue gases contain a mixture of different compounds, many of which are dangerous for your health. One of them is carbon monoxide (CO), which can cause organ damage. Extended exposure to CO can be fatal.
Historically the term flue meant the chimney itself. In the United States, they are also known as vents for boilers and as breeching for water heaters and modern furnaces. They usually operate by buoyancy, also known as the stack effect, or the combustion products may be 'induced' via a blower.
The movement of hot gases rising from the fire creates a pressure difference between the inside of the flue and the room. This is called a “draught” and it forces air into the fireplace, this air feeds the flames as it rushes past the fire. The hotter the fire, the faster the air rises and the better the chimney works.
They Prevent Combustion in Surrounding Areas
Unlined chimney flues will allow smoke and gasses to pass through the bricks and mortar. Smoke and heat can eventually turn into a chimney fire and pass through to combustible materials such as wood studs and drywall, causing a house fire.
A gas flue is used to vent exhaust air from a combustion system, like the one on a furnace that burns natural gas or propane. A gas flue is a device used to vent exhaust air from a combustion system. These systems include things such as fireplaces and furnaces that burn natural gas or propane to produce heat.
Flue gas is the gas exiting to the atmosphere via a flue, which is a pipe or channel for conveying exhaust gases from a fireplace, oven, furnace, boiler or steam generator. Quite often, the flue gas refers to the combustion exhaust gas produced at power plants.
Active ventilation pulls the air in from the outside and pushes it out from the inside. Passive ventilation means the air in the attic is moved around by natural sources, such as wind. Both ventilation systems do their job, and one isn't better than the other.
Class A pipe is used to vent high-temperature exhaust released from wood, coal, and oil-burning appliances such as fireplaces, stoves, boilers, and furnaces. Not every venting system requires a Class A pipe, but it is absolutely necessary for use with all wood-burning fireplaces and stoves.
Category IV appliances use a fan to force the combustion gases through the vent piping. Because the fan creates a positive pressure within the vent pipe, any unsealed joints will allow flue gases to leak outward. Technicians must make certain that all joints are properly sealed and that there are no leaks.
Typical flue gases from natural gas-fired power plants may contain 8-10% CO2, 18-20% H2O, 2-3% O2, and 67-72% N2; typical flue gases from coal-fired boilers may contain 12-14 vol% CO2, 8-10 vol% H2O, 3-5 vol % O2 and 72-77% N2.
Complete combustion is termed here when carbon and hydrogen in fuel is totally oxidized to carbon dioxide and water vapor, and no additional oxygen is present in the flue gases. This corresponds to air–fuel ratio of 10 in Figure 2.
Flue gas treatment technologies are post-combustion processes to convert NOx to molecular nitrogen or nitrates. The two primary strategies that have been developed for post-combustion control and are commercially available are selective catalytic reduction (SCR) and selective non-catalytic reduction (SNCR).
Definition of flue
: an enclosed passageway for directing a current: such as. a : a channel in a chimney for conveying flame and smoke to the outer air. b : a pipe for conveying flame and hot gases around or through water in a steam boiler.
Flues can be made from terracotta clay, concrete, or stainless or galvanized steel. Clay and concrete flue sections (called tiles) are square or rectangular in cross-section; clay tiles are usually 24 inches long, while concrete tiles are shorter.
What Is a Flue System ? A flue is a duct, pipe, or opening in a chimney for conveying exhaust gases from a fireplace, furnace, water heater, boiler, or generator to the outdoors.
Feeling the breeze is another method you can use to know whether you have an open or closed flue. Locate your hand inside the fireplace and wait to notice if you can feel the air flowing. When the flue is open, air will flow down the chimney.
Some open the flue by rotating a knob in the anticlockwise or clockwise direction, while others require you to pull or push to open the flue. You can quickly tell whether you have an open or closed flue depending on the position of these controls.
A regular gas stove does need a chimney or flue. As gas doesn't produce any heavy smoke, as a wood burning stove would, they don't require you to have a Class 1 brick chimney – though they usually can be installed into one of these without any issues.
The flue is simply the open middle of the chimney that the smoke goes up. Dampers are sometimes miss-called flues or flutes, but they are something entirely different than the flue. A damper is intended to shut off- either fully or partially- the chimney flue.
The general rule is as follows: For a stove of up to 20kW a minimum of 6” diameter flue is needed. You can use a 5” diameter flue liner if you have a DEFRA approved stove and the manufacturer clearly states this is compatible.
The flue is simply a piece of pipework or duct that moves gases and hot air from the combustion chamber of the boiler to outside. With condensing boilers, the flue is effectively part of the heating system, as it is the heat from the burned gases that starts warming the returning water from the system.
Flue terminals should also typically be sited at least 600mm above flat roofs. Boiler flues should be positioned at least 75mm below any material that could be damaged by heat, such as guttering. They should also be at least 150mm to the side of vertical drain or soil pipes.
The best clue to knowing what type of flue you have is by simply looking at your roof and seeing what kind of outlet it has. Most of our gas fires are class 1, class 2 and precast suitable, however in the case of our wall mounted fires the requirements vary.
What is a flue pipe? The flue pipe is a duct pipe that vents, or exhausts, gases from inside the home to the outside. A byproduct of combustion contains carbon monoxide and other dangerous compounds.
The furnace flue will usually be located on the top or the rear of the furnace. It will directly connect to a chimney or to a metal flue pipe that extends vertically to the roof. Most of the remaining pipe will be hidden as it passes through your home, though it may be visible in the attic.
The final gaseous product of combustion is then a flue gas. Fuels used for this purpose are mainly hydrocarbons (natural gas, coal, fuel oil, wood etc.)
There are three types of venting in your home: venting for supply air, return air and exhaust air. The effectiveness of these venting systems is facilitated by a combination of heating and air system materials, duct sizes, duct sealant and insulation.
There are three methods that may be used to ventilate a building: natural, mechanical and hybrid (mixed-mode) ventilation.
Exhaust vents are divided into three common categories: static, powered, and mechanical.
- Static Exhaust Vents. ...
- Powered Exhaust Vents. ...
- Mechanical Exhaust Vents.
Type C vents are used only as connectors. They are single walled galvanized pipes, and as such often called “galvanized pipes”. They are used only for venting gas or oil. Using a C vent with solid fuel appliances can cause extremely toxic fumes. This is the least expensive of the pipes.
Category III is defined as a gas heating appliance with a flue loss equal or greater than 17% (non-condensing) with a positive vent static pressure. In a Category III venting system, if there is a leak in the venting system, flue gas will flow from the flue pipe into the space.
The AmeriVent all-metal, double-wall gas vent is listed as Type B by Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. and is approved for such residential and commercial applications as Category 1 water heaters, boilers, furnaces, space heaters, or wall heaters.
B-vent fireplaces draw in air from inside your room to create combustion, then release the exhaust through a chimney in the roof of your home. These fireplaces are very similar to the installation of a wood-burning fireplace, but still run off of either propane or gas.
Suitable materials for the vent and condensate pipes include PVC (polyvinyl chloride), CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), and ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) plastic pipe, depending on the furnace's specified exhaust gas temperature.
A gas vent shall terminate in accordance with one of the following: 1. Gas vents that are 12 inches (305 mm) or less in size and located not less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate above the roof in accordance with Figure 503.6. 5.
The purpose of the flue pipe is to remove harmful byproducts of the combusted, or burned, fuel from inside your home. If the byproducts are not properly ventilated from inside the home, then you can have a dangerous buildup of carbon monoxide.
All water heater venting systems use a vent duct or pipe—also called a chimney or flue—to bring exhaust gases from the water heater to the outdoors. The duct may be metal or plastic, depending on the type of vent system.
FLUE – (lining in a masonry chimney)- “A clay, ceramic, or metal conduit installed inside of a chimney, intended to contain the combustion products, direct them to the outside atmosphere, and protect the chimney walls from heat and corrosion.” Although building codes vary from one state or locality to another, the ...
A damper is located in the flue of your chimney. The flue is where the smoke escapes when the fire is going. Dampers are placed inside of the flue to help control ventilation. Your damper should have a chain or handle that you can access in order to open and close it.
by Michael Casey and Barry Stone
A common misunderstanding of the Uniform Mechanical Code, Section 802.3.4.4, has led many inspectors to conclude that this is a prohibited connection.. The code states as follows: “Vent connectors serving appliances vented by natural draft shall not be connected into any portion of mechanical draft systems operating under positive pressure.” At first glance, this appears to include all forced air furnaces with fan-assisted combustion systems.. To enable proper venting, an inducer fan is built into the system.. The fan, however, does not exert positive pressure into the flue pipe.. The exhaust in the flue is gravity-vented.. Therefore, its vent pressure is rated as “non-positive,” which is why it can be vented in common with a gravity vented water heater.. Category IV Appliances are mainly high efficiency water heaters and furnaces that use plastic vent pipes.. These appliances also operate with positive vent pressure and cannot share a common vent with a gravity-vented water heater.. With a category I furnace, this is not a problem because both appliances are gravity-vented, even an induced draft furnace.. A furnace vented as Category I is considered a fan-assisted appliance and does not have to be "gas tight.". NOTE: Single-Stage and Two-Stage gas furnaces with induced draft blowers draw products of combustion through a heat exchanger allowing in some instances common venting with natural draft appliances (i.e. water heaters).. Barry Stone has practiced home inspections on the Central Coast of California since 1987 where he survives his Realtor reputation as a “deal killer.” He is an ICC certified building inspector and mechanical inspector and an AHERA certified asbestos inspector.
Water heater venting is serious business. A fuel-burning water heater creates carbon monoxide. You need that to leave your home. Backdrafting DANGER!
My water heater is now the only thing venting into the masonry chimney.. An orphaned water heater is one that vents into a chimney flue liner that used to accept the exhaust gas of the water heater and usually a furnace.. The exhaust gas temperature of modern gas furnaces and water heaters is much lower than past appliances because much more heat is harvested so you waste less money up your chimney.. On the contrary, if you tried to exhaust your furnace and water heater into a power plant chimney, the exhaust gases very likely wouldn't rise.. If the inside of the chimney cools down too much or there is too much cold air inside the chimney, the water vapor can condense and saturate the masonry inside the chimney before it can escape into the atmosphere.. It's best to use a stainless steel chimney liner if you're high-efficiency water heater or furnace exhausts into a masonry chimney.
All furnaces produce combustion gases that must be vented out of the system to ensure a healthy furnace flame and efficient heating while preventing potential
Attach the vent to the furnace : Use high silicon caulk to seal the joint around the vent and furnace.. Whereas traditional furnaces can rely on the buoyancy effect of warmer gases to vent exhaust gases through the roof or chimney, today’s modern gas furnaces produce colder exhaust gases.. Ensure to seal all soffit vents immediately above the vent, even if the vents are two floors above the flue vent.. Concentric venting describes a coaxial “pipe in pipe” venting design where the exhaust gas and intake air vent through a shared pipe assembly.. For instance, while installing a direct vent furnace, the technician may terminate the vent with a concentric pipe.. Finally, you can also vent a gas furnace using power vents.. Standard power vents use just a single pipe, i.e., indirect venting, where the furnace draws inlet air from inside the house and exhausts waste gases outside the house.. You can vent your gas furnace in many different ways, with chimney venting, roof venting, and wall venting the three most popular venting approaches.
Explore venting options of tankless water heaters for the safe, reliable and cost-effective operation. What do you need to know about tankless venting and how to install it properly. Direct vs. power venting.
Either you have purchased a tankless water heater or searching for relevant information about on-demand heating units, installation requirements for the venting system are something you should carefully explore.. As the unit releases energy to heat water, it also generates exhaust gases.. To remove the gases safely, tankless water heaters usually utilize one of the following venting types: power or direct vent .. This applies to tankless models designed for indoor installation, while the outdoor models do not require a venting system because they are already installed outside.. Power vent vs. direct vent Gas tankless water heaters can use indoor or outdoor air for combustion, and the exhaust gases must freely travel to the outside atmosphere, with no obstructions and leaks.. Power-vent water heaters use indoor air for gas combustion, while direct-vent utilize outside air.. A power-vent model comprises an exhaust fan and only one pipe, which is exhaust, while a direct-vent model has two, one for air intake and the other for exhaust.. In a direct-vent setup where the tankless utilizes two pipes, you can either install two separate pipes (two-pipe system) or a one-pipe system with the concentric (coaxial) setup, also known as a pipe within the pipe.. Indoor tankless water heaters must release exhaust gases to the outside atmosphere using one of the vent types mentioned above: power or direct vent.. The typical vent installation of the tankless indoor water heater is horizontally through the sidewall or vertically through the roof.. If you decide to go with the horizontal installation of your non-condensing unit, you would have to slope the vent downward and away from the heater.
High-efficiency condensing furnaces require special plastic vent pipes, as well as a plastic drain pipe to drain condensate created by the furnace.
Traditional gas-fired, forced-air furnaces produce hot combustion exhaust gasses and therefore need metal vent pipes , or chimneys.. In contrast, modern high-efficiency condensing furnaces exhaust much cooler gasses and need only plastic pipe materials—such as SS, PVC , CPVC, or ABS—for their exhaust vents.. Some high-efficiency furnaces also include a plastic pipe for the intake area, and all types use a third plastic pipe to drain away the corrosive condensation resulting from the combustion process.. Because there are no universal standards for exhaust and intake pipes on high-efficiency furnaces, there is a lack of clarity and accountability over approved construction standards for this piping material.. It provides a direct intake vent that brings outside air to the sealed combustion chamber with one pipe, while a second vent pipe provides sealed venting of exhaust gases back to the outside of your house.. It provides a vent pipe for exhaust gases but uses unconditioned (not cooled or heated) air from the space around the furnace for combustion air.. The condensate pipe drains the moisture into a floor drain or household drain pipe or small condensate pump.. The furnace uses an exhaust vent motor that pushes the exhaust gas through the vent pipe, creating a positive static pressure in the vent.. Therefore, only special types of plastic are recommended by furnace manufacturers for venting and condensate drainage in a condensing furnace.. Suitable materials for the vent and condensate pipes include PVC (polyvinyl chloride), CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), and ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) plastic pipe, depending on the furnace’s specified exhaust gas temperature.. The International Fuel Gas Code states in section 503.4.1.1 (IFGS): “Plastic pipe and fittings used to vent appliances shall be installed in accordance with the appliance manufacturer's installation instructions.” But this lack of specifications can lead to confusion.. Ironically, even though the presence of plastic vent pipes has become synonymous with high-efficiency condensing furnaces, PVC pipe manufacturers do not recommend PVC for this application.. The ASTM D1785 standard for Schedule 40 (applying to plumbing drain piping) states, “This standard specification for PVC pipe does not include requirements for pipe and fittings intended to be used to vent combustion gases.". Building codes at both the national and local level seem to defer to the furnace manufacturers to specify which plastic pipes can be used as low-temperature vents with their products.. Despite the confusion, the safe practice would suggest the use of PVC schedule 40 pipes for the air intake vent on the furnace and CPVC for the exhaust flue vent, given its higher service temperature.
What Is A Fireplace Damper? A fireplace damper is a device that can be manually opened or closed with the purpose of allowing gases and other byproducts from a fireplace ...
The handle to control the damper located in the flue, just above the wood burning stove. A fireplace or chimney damper is used for:. A flue damper is used for:. A closed door on a wood burning stove. prevents warm air from leaving a home and cold air from entering.. A damper is a device located inside the flue. that helps to control how quickly warm air, waste gases and smoke are released. from the fireplace during a fire, while also helping to reduce the inflow of. cold air from the outside while the fireplace isn’t in use.. Not. all chimneys or flues have a damper.. It’s possible that you have an old. fireplace with no damper, just like we do.. If you. can see up through the damper to your chimney then you know that the damper is. open.. If you have a traditional damper located within the throat of your chimney , find. the controls to your damper by looking under the top of your fireplace.. A flue damper is usually found just above. the fireplace stove, at the base of the flue, but may be located further up the. flue.. By partially closing off a flue damper you. can help to control the heat loss from a wood burning stove, while still. allowing waste gas and smoke leave your home.. A chimney or flue damper doesn’t always need. to always be open all the way when burning wood in your home.. Dampers can. be installed within throat of the chimney, at the top of the chimney, or within. the flue of a stove.
Rinnai error code 10 indicates that the air supply or exhaust system is blocked or has some restrictions, so that the normal air flow or flue gas extraction is disrupted.
Rinnai. Rinnai error code 10 indicates that the air supply or exhaust system is blocked or has some restrictions to disrupt normal airflow or flue gas extraction.. This applies to all tankless water heaters from this manufacturer.. Venting system is obstructed Venting is not installed correctly Venting type, lengths, material, and clearances are not per specs Contaminants present inside the venting system Defective sensor Dip switch is not in the right position Fan blower has a blockage or is malfunctioning Check valve is stuck Condensate build-up and clogged line Gas pressure is incorrect High altitude setting is inaccurately set Problems with the PC board. If it doesn't work, follow the troubleshooting steps below, or contact a professional plumber/technician .. Venting problems Always buy Rinnai original components and what is recommended for your Rinnai model.. The code 10 would show up if the wrong venting material is used, venting elements are not correctly connected, if it is incorrectly sized, or something is blocking normal air intake or exhaust.. How to check if the venting system is causing a diagnostic code 10?. Remove the exhaust pipe located at the top of the water heater and turn your Rinnai water heater ON.. If the water heater is still coding out, then the problem is not with the venting system.. Clean the fan assembly from contaminants.. Try to inspect the air filter periodically and as specified by Rinnai.. Turn OFF a tankless water heater.. Conclusion Rinnai tankless water heaters can show error code 10 for various reasons.
Fireplace installation costs $1,050 to $3,780 based on if it's gas, wood-burning, or electric. Extra costs to build a fireplace are a chimney and brickwork.
The cost to install a gas fireplace is $2,300 to $4,000 , a traditional wood-burning fireplace runs $1,900 to $3,300 , and an electric fireplace costs $100 to $2,200 .. Fireplace Installation Cost Fireplace TypeCost To InstallElectric Fireplace $100 – $2,200 Wood-Burning Fireplace $1,900 – $3,300 Gas Fireplace $2,300 – $4,000 Masonry Fireplace $3,500 – $5,600 On average, a new metal prefabricated gas or wood-burning fireplace costs $2,900 installed, while an electric fireplace runs $1,200 .. A masonry fireplace costs an average of $4,900 installed in an existing home with a 12’ chimney.. Fireplace Installation Cost Cost To Build A Fireplace Vented Vs. Ventless Fireplace Reasons To Install A Fireplace Frequently Asked Questions Hiring A Fireplace Installer Fireplace Installation Near Me There are several different types of fuel-powered fireplaces and installations, namely gas, electric, and wood-burning, so the prices differ quite a bit.. Cost To Run Gas & Electric Fireplace TypeCost To Run Per HourNatural Gas $0.70 Electric $0.15 Propane $2.30 A new gas, wood-burning, electric, or masonry fireplace firebox unit costs between $1,100 and $2,800 , or about $1,800 on average.. These prices are before any veneer, hearth, or mantel is added.. Material & Labor Costs To Install Fireplace TypeMaterial – Firebox OnlyLabor – No Flue/ChimneyMasonry Fireplace$1,136 – $1,454$2,210 – $2,941Gas Fireplace - vented$1,085 – $2,861$2,500 – $2,822Wood-Burning Fireplace(9’ – 24’ chimney included)$1,250 – $2,063$670 – $1,463Electric Fireplace$100 – $2,200$0 – $365 The cost to install a wood-burning fireplace ranges from $1,200 to $4,500 , which is prefabricated and includes a 9’ – 24’, 9” chimney.. The cost to install a gas fireplace ranges from $2,280 to $4,030 .. It burns the most efficiently out of all the choices, heating a room with less energy, and it only costs about $60 a year to run a gas fireplace.. Gas logs are available for vented or vent-free gas fireplaces.. A ventless gas fireplace will cost about $1,200 less to install.. Also, electric fireplaces don't require a chimney or hearth and can add a high aesthetic value to a room.. Natural gas burns clean with energy costs at $0.70 per hour, making it an eco-friendly option.
Considering an attic sealing project? Air sealing in the attic is generally a challenging DIY project, but the benefits can be substantial. If you are doing a major home renovation project, now may be a great time to tackle this project too.
Behind and under kneewalls Attic hatch Wiring holes Holes for plumbing and pipes Dropped soffits that are open to the attic Recessed lights Furnace flue or duct chaseway (the hollow box or wall feature that hides ducts). Once in the attic, refer to your sketch to locate the areas where leakage is likely to be greatest: where walls (inner and outer) meet the attic floor, dropped soffits (dropped-ceiling areas), and behind or under attic kneewalls.. You will place this insulation back over the soffit once the stud cavities have been plugged and the soffits covered. After removing insulation from a dropped soffit, cut a length of reflective foil or other blocking material (rigid foam board works well) a few inches longer than the opening to be covered.. Fold the bag over and stuff it into the open joist space under the wall (a piece of rigid foam board sealed with spray foam also works well for covering open joist cavities).. Because the pipe gets hot, building codes usually require 1 inch of clearance from metal flues (2 inches from masonry chimneys) to any combustible material, including insulation.. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it meets the cold air in the attic.. After sealing the areas, just push the insulation back into place.. When the foam or caulk is dry, cover the area again with insulation.. Form an insulation dam to prevent insulation from contacting the flue pipe.. If the space around your plumbing pipe is wider than 3 inches, you may need to stuff some fiberglass insulation into the space to serve as a backer for the expanding foam.. Once the fiberglass insulation is in place, follow the directions on the can to foam the space around the pipe.